Providing you extensive course detail from HMI and JIM&WS

Mountaineering in India

There are following Mountaineering courses available in India:

1.Basic Mountaineering Course (BMC)

2.Advance Mountaineering Course (AMC)

3.Method of Instruction (MOI)

4.Search and Rescue course (S&R)

5.Adventure course

I'll be precise - You can do all the courses, but just BMC and AMC are enough, if one wants to be a good mountaineer (or even scale Mt.Everest ), the rest needs experience and practice in the field with lots of expeditions.

This is a very confusing web page of IMF- http://www.indmount.org/

These courses are specialized in following institutes in India-

HMI, Darjeeling-

www.hmi-darjeeling.com

JIM&WS Pahalgam-

http://www.jawaharinstitutepahalgam.com/training.php

NIM, Uttarkashi

www.nimindia.net/

ABVIMAS
http://www.adventurehimalaya.org/mountaineering.asp

Many institutes are less known like- Sonam Gyatso mountaineering institute.

However, I have experience of only two among the above mentioned Institutes.

I went to JIM to do my Basic Mountaineering in 2012 and to HMI for AMC in 2013.

I am a student and really tight with finances (lol everyone is!) so I could not afford any expedition and therefore decided to explore solo these institutes and do as many courses as I can and as many times they'd allow me to :-)

So once again I am going to do my Advance Course from HMI in October 2015 and I have a S&R course in NIM on March 2016.

REVIEW #1, The year 2013

Believe me when i tell you that you will watch mountaineering movies, meet amazing people all around world and learn under some great and valuable Mentors........!!!! This is life of HMI :-)

HMI Darjeeling:

This course is very Fresh in my memory and therefore I'd like to review it first.

I was here @ time of political chaos, but no worry, Tourist are Respected any time :-).....!

Part-1......ADMISSION PROCESS

For civilians, this is probably the most daunting and confusing task, be it any institute. 

I have seen most people confused in this,  reason is the faculty present in desk of these institute is not very cooperative with some and others have problem managing their schedule as the courses where they get vacancy are probably like 1 year or in some cases 2 year later.

This does not make folks happy, applying for the said course.

Why this?- Because simply these institutes do not run on the fees they ask you. 

Obviously 5000 rupees for a course is real cheap. 

These institutes are under Ministry of  Defense, Govt.of India and has a self-financing Centre + State Budget for their year-round activities. 

Courses for CIVILIANS like me and you (probably) are highly SUBSIDIZED.

So if you are tight on budget, like me you have to compromise and get seat year later or more.....!

Alternative???

-well yes but one has to seriously compromise on the "BUDGET" and maybe the duration of the course:

HIA, Mussorie (32 km from my home Dehradun)

This is a great institute too under the direction of  Mr. S.P. Chamoli.

If you check their site and compare with others you'll know the difference.

Part 2-MEDICAL FITNESS-

Well, many institutes above mentioned will ask you to attach medical fitness form duly signed by doctor or CMO  before arriving to institute. 

This certificate is NOT important during the applying process, Please don't get me wrong , 

What I mean to say is that : 

Consider this, Your course is after 1 year or 6 Month approx so will your body give same result it is giving today (like Hb level and all) even after a year....IMPRACTICAL and you'd be happy to know that even the Institutes consider it to be impractical. 

But you HAVE to Have a medical certificate accompany you!

Please carry your fully mentioned MEDICAL certificate with you before you attend the course.....ITS FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY.

Part 3-NO RESPONSE ---- what to do?

Simple,first thing to do is to send your Form with duly attached draft with it (please keep a photocopy of the draft).

No one rejects (aati hui lakshmi) Money and they will definitely fit you somewhere in the course, I am not saying this vaguely, since a few students drop their course for some reason, you can fit there. 

It's like negotiating afterward.

Keep mailing to them, each institute definitely checks and writes back mail, if you have sent them DRAFT.

If it does not work and you cannot shift your schedule, simply take back your money by emailing them that you are not willing anymore to do the course. 

Before 5 months, you'll get the full amount and after that like before 3 or 2 months you have to shed some money if you call back your admission.

DO NOT wait for LAST one month to withdrew. You won't get a penny!

Part 4- COURSE...............Hard hai kya? (is it hard?)

Well, HMI is probably the best institute:

Sherpa Tenzing Norgay was from the same place near Darjeeling.

YES, it is Hard! But it teaches more than just mountaineering.

Prepare yourself at least 6 months before, I bet in every course AMC+BMC at least 5 people leave in between.

I am not trying to make you afraid- Just  making your tryst with reality.

Below is story of my course mate:

Check this out-http://www.telegraphindia.com/1130930/jsp/calcutta/story_17405894.jsp#.VYZ1UPmqqko

http://www.telegraphindia.com/1131001/jsp/calcutta/story_17410092.jsp#.VYZ2pfmqqko

Saikat was my buddy, great mountaineer, and robust Scuba Diver, we still feel for him. 

He died near Dzongri ~ 14000ft. We completed our training, the course didn't halt........when we came back institute after 14 days, I myself packed his bag to send it to his home.

So nothing bad if you are not fit or you fear....its all ok. However, one should be well informed about the various mountain situation one might get into!

This is reality boss!

So prepare really well and be aware of your own body. This is not to make you afraid that to let you know the limit. Such accidents rarely happen.

Part 5- Alpha milega? (I want A grade?)

Well, it won't be possible if you do not show some good enthusiastic and leadership qualities. Be disciplined and  behave properly during the course.

Remember theory too counts which is a test of your written knowledge on Paper. There is a good library in HMI Darj.

Practical- well you will be tested on Glacier as well as on Rock. I earned Silver medal during my training. Many people back off or lose early due to their own excuses. However, if you are young and enthusiast you should have no reason to loose. Give it all during the test and let them know you have learned something, that your time was worth it.

HMI rock climbing is one of the best in Country. They'd test you on both indoor as well as outdoor walls.
Here I'll show a glimpse of HMI outdoor wall,just to boost you. (I'm not deploying much photos because i don't want to kill your "moment" )

The test is of your learned rock skills and pretty straightforward of everything.

HMI gives practice opportunity too in this rock. During the monsoon period one might get bored as there is nothing much one can do. So be very well about the course timing.

Part-6: Will i go to Sikkim for training?

Well yes you will.

As well as  FOREIGNERS, if you are willing to do any course from HMI, they will take you to Sikkim without any extra permit. 

You will save your time and have a great company to be with. However, no LUXURY for anyone......you'll eat,live,shit all alike !

West Sikkim is the main Area where HMI takes us. 

Yuksum (meeting place of 3 lamas) once capital of sikkim, is the starting point of the Famous HMI 3 Day trek! :-)

Here's a map:

It is quite famous trek and is  Rigorous too  with around 18 kgs weight around your back for BASIC people and more for ADVANCE as they have to carry their own tent :-)

Be Prepared :-)

HMI is know to be most "tough"....look I have been to JIM and i know it is anything but tough. 

HMI is the real mountaineering (i don't know anything about NIM , have to go there in 2016). Discipline is top parameter of yours passing or failing the course.

Locals are very friendly but you are not allowed to do extra porter or Yak, even at your own cost. 

You'll get food at time and that too full of nutrition and you should yourself carry some items like dry fruits and chocolates. 

Though HMI provides them but you'll get them near the end of course or maybe during coming back.

Remember no special treatment is given to anyone. At any point of time you feel you can't do it, you will be duly carried back with a porter back to Yuksum as long as bus is there, otherwise you have to arrange transport to reach back to HMI. 

Since most of your "no USE' luggage is locked in your HMI hostel room you have to go there. Please keep some cash/ATM with you, not large amount but at least some!

Sikkim is real cold and you will most of the time fight with mountain sickness for the 3-4 days or maybe a week within of your reaching Chowrikhang Base Camp.  


This is a TISCO made permanent base camp of HMI with facilities like barracks, huts and medical huts. BASIC guys will stay here for rest of their training and mostly go near Rathong Glacier for ice craft.


ADVANCE will move ahead and pitch there tent few more kms ahead of basic people. 

Only Once Basic People will come to see how ADVANCE are living outside tent (&saving their ass from constant avalanches).

This is an avalanche prone area so do not go there with your bluetooth speakers or mobile phones. Try to be silent there! For sake of your fellow mountaineers!

Here you will enjoy and suffer most. 

Enjoy by the beauty and suffer due to mountain sickness, nightmares are common and please drink lots of fluid, in case of any uneasiness feel free to contact your fellow buddy or course coordinator.....do not hide your sickness.

You have to shit in open so make necessary arrangements of toilet paper,medicines and sanitizers  .

Though there is a shop @ DZONGRI but it is heavily priced (obvious reasons) due to very high altitude.

You can buy some stuff from Dzongri, just to support local population......!

You'll meet many other trek mates, as this is very famous trek in whole Asia. 

You are allowed to greet but do not stop to chat around or ask them how much to go? 

You should save your energy by just greeting them because there only you will be the one carrying such huge ruck sack with yourself, only YAK will accompany you in load sharing ;-)

Advance guys are always one day ahead of the Basic course people.

Advance reach a day ahead of Basic in HMI after completion of the course!

After the course, a marathon like run for BASIC Mountaineers around Darjeeling is their test of stamina, Basic mount.are also made to climb outdoor wall, and for ADVANCE it is mainly Rock climbing + Making a full fledged Expedition for each team of various mountains.

One can use library,course lecture notes and mountaineering wisdom to pass theory test.

Part-7- HMI or JIM or NIM or ABVIMAS????

Well every institute has its own perks for example, JIM has the best rock climbing training, whereas HMI has the best trek and high altitude training.

Food in JIM is ridiculous but food in HMI is far better. Teachers in both institutes are the best.

JIM and HMI has both best facilities in terms of training but in every course you'll find a mix up of civilians and defense personnel.


I'll soon write about Basic course in JIM&WS.


Thank you for reading, hope it was helpful. Drop any queries you have.!